Stella Gilliland
July 25, 2014
Advocacy Forum
Kathmandu, Nepal
“Namaste.”
Pooja welcomes me each morning with a quiet greeting,
hands pressed in a prayer position. She hands me my morning milk chai. Mornings
in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital city, are raucous occasions of barking,
construction, and street hawkers advertising their wares. The mountains ringing the valley are
sometimes visible at sunrise, before the haze descends. Later, just as the afternoon heat is becoming
unbearable, the monsoon rains come.
Pooja is Advocacy Forum’s “didi”
(literally: sister), or caretaker. She cooks
Nepali staples for lunch, dhal bhat or maybe mo: mos, the office staff crowded around
the plastic table in her small kitchen. The
still afternoons, punctuated with cups of sweet black tea, seem worlds away
from the violent conflict that marred the country less than a decade ago and
continues to define the Nepali justice system.
The
decade-long conflict between Maoist insurgents and the Nepali government ended
with a ceasefire agreement in 2006. An
estimated 13,000 Nepalis were killed, many of them civilians, women, and
children. The country has struggled to
heal and rebuild, hindered by corruption, a bickering and fractious civil
society, and entrenched impunity for even the grossest human rights violators. Despite recent strides in infrastructure and
education, Nepal remains one of the poorest, most corrupt, and least developed
nations in the world.
The legal system, especially,
continues to feel the growing pains inherent in a post-conflict democracy. Various committees struggle to replace the
2007 interim Constitution. The
much-anticipated Truth and Reconciliation Commission was finally passed in
April, only to be met with domestic criticism and much pooh-poohing by the
international community. Cases languish in dilapidated court halls, often
postponed dozens of times, over multiple years, or else are dropped after
petitioners succumb to bribery and threats.
Judges, in their distinct black caps, write their opinions by hand and
verdicts are delivered on traditional Nepali parchment.
My work here with Advocacy Forum has
centered around litigation for victims of extrajudicial killings and
torture. Advocacy Forum is a national
NGO that advocated strongly for victims and their families during and after the
conflict. However, many extrajudicial
killing cases stalled after local authorities refused or simply ignored court
orders to begin investigations. Despite
continuous pressure from the government and military (frequent threats, onerous
compliance laws), Advocacy Forum continues to represent victims and seek new
strategies to end impunity for human rights violators and to compensate
victims.
Conducting research in a developing
country is an exercise in patience.
Court visits consist of long hours spent waiting, only to hear that the
case has been postponed yet again. Power
cuts occur daily, sometimes for up to 14 hours a day. Generators fall victim to the ubiquitous gas
shortages.
Despite the frustrations, my experience here has been transformative. To live in Nepal is to confront daily the scars
and challenges of a post-conflict society.
People speak openly of their wartime experiences, of torture and loss
but also optimism and national pride.
I
will return to the U.S. with a deeper understanding of how cultural and
historic idiosyncrasies can shape a legal system, how international attention
can drive domestic litigation, and the importance of a functioning civil
society. When I return to Nepal, as I
surely will, I will be excited to see progress towards the pluralist democracy
envisioned by the Nepali people.
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